24 hours in Barcelona

Goodbye Columbus

Hello Barcelona.

It is a remarkable place. The narrow winding streets replaced the original gridlike pattern the Romans put in when they originated the city in like 15 BC (don't quote me on dates!). They make it nearly impossible to figure out where you are, are slightly claustrophobic, but they certainly limit car traffic! They served a purpose way back when to protect the royals in their palace. While the city was walled (remnants remain) the windy streets confused invading armies (from the visigoths to the muslims, the french, etc etc), giving the townsfolk the upper hand.

The city is built up on top of itself. The cornerstone is always the churches, although they went out of favor a bit due to much persecution and etc. The old Roman wall is still visible in places and the walls of the old churches, palaces and etc. have become newer buildings. In some places you can't even see the original, or know that there was a church, unless you slip down a side street.

Barcelona is a part of Catalyna. Which in their mind is not truly a part of Spain! They have their own language but previous kings and etc. worked to outlaw Catalyn so it became a point of pride and distinction and is shared today with Spanish (although that is more commonly spoken). They also have their own flag. At one time Barcelona and Catalyna had a large "empire" centrally located on ports and was quite prominent and affluent. Part of the end began when Fernando and Isabel married and took the royal palace out of Barcelona to Toledo (no not Toledo Ohio!). While they welcomed Christopher Columbus (and the 5 Native Americans/Indians he had with him) to their Barcelona home they did not allow Catalan to share in any of the profits of the shipping and etc. that prospered with the finding of the new world. This was the begining of the end of the area's dominance as it had been.

The area became known to artists and had quite a grouping at one point. Perhaps you've heard of P. Picasso who lived his formative years here and was quite a Catalan. Franco was quite dismissive of Catalan and PIcasso protested through his art and by not returning to the area (may have been because he was exiled though!) even for the opening of his museum. He would not let most of his most famous pieces back into Spain until Franco died.

The formation of the Modernista era of architecture signaled the re-growth of Barcelona, headed by Anton Gaudi. Very much a man who started projects and could not finish -- Sagrada Familia started in 1832 and they are still constructing today! He also started what was to be a grand housing project on a hill North of the city in Eixample (meaning literally expansion -- the expansion of the original Barcelona (in the walled city) as it out grew the area) and while there are 3 or 4 buildings there only one of the planned "houses" of the project was ever built.

Recognized by its bright colors, tile mosiacs, it is very distinctive. And most of this architecture, as well as the art of artists such as Picasso, contain hidden (and probably not so subtle) images depicting the Catalan struggle for independence, and its history.

The food is not so bad either. They serve chocolate in a cup, some will sip, warm as in hot chocolate, but more commonly they'll dip pastires or churro's in. Tapas are fun to eat with others and share and sample. Also found a Catalan restaurant with "authentic" Catalan dishes -- they actually walk you through the kitchen. Great Lobster Paella.

Los Ramblos is fun -- its a long street with a tourist type market in the middle. One section is plants and flowers, one sells animals (turtles, birds, even chipmunks!) and there are mimes and street artists -- very fun to walk down.

So I don't like the heat (July in the Med isn't fun!) or that everyone smokes. I really like the old town and its eclectic feel, the international/cosmopolitan feel of the city. But what I like most was the market. It was incredible -- I ate breakfast there this morning and most of the fruit I didn't recognize but they have EVERYTHING. All fresh produce and fruit and the restaurants (like the one from last night) actually shop here. It was absolutely wonderful. Rows and rows, stalls and more stalls. All with quite the local feel. Definitely a must see part of any Barcelona trip.

I'll share my cool hotel room later. For now -- Goodbye from Barcelona -- I'll update you next from Girona!